{"id":1336,"date":"2023-11-15T08:03:50","date_gmt":"2023-11-15T08:03:50","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/apethtravels.uk\/?p=1336"},"modified":"2023-12-04T03:43:40","modified_gmt":"2023-12-04T03:43:40","slug":"south-island-new-zealand-15-november-to-1-december-2023","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/apethtravels.uk\/?p=1336","title":{"rendered":"South Island, New Zealand: 15 November to 1 December 2023"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
Milford, Auckland: 1 – 3 December<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
On 3 December we caught a bus to Brown\u2019s Bay and ran back to the hotel. Had a tasty Indian lunch in Takapuna and then hopped into a taxi to Auckland airport for our flight to San Francisco. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
On 2 December met up with Alan\u2019s ex-colleague, Andy Ryan and his wife Su. Had a lovely lunch with them in Devonport. <\/p>\n\n\n\nAlan and Andy with Auckland CBD in the distance. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nAndy and Su Ryan at Brown\u2019s Bay, Auckland.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
On 1 December dropped the motorhome at Dunedin Airport car park. Flew Air New Zealand to Auckland. We are staying in the City of Sails Motel in Milford just north of the city. A rather noisy evening with some motel guests getting drunk and rowdy. They were kicked out later so things improved late evening.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Portobello, Dunedin: 28 November – 1 December<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nPortobello on the Otago peninsula.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
On 30 November, our last full day in Dunedin, we explored the other side of the bay and the mole and beach at Aramoana. Alan tried fishing off the end of the 1200 metre mole but had no luck. A grunting noise to his left turned out to be a huge male fur seal ten metres away resting behind a rock! No wonder there were no fish! Caroline explored the pristine beach and found collections of shells in a few eddy spots.<\/p>\n\n\n\nFreddy the fur seal who had all the fish<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nAramoana beach and some of the shell collections<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nA Blue Bream not native to the area but starting to be caught and washed up on the nearby beaches (climate change?)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
On 29 November we ran to the aptly named Allan\u2019s Beach to view New Zealand Sea Lions. There were three on the beach just lolling about in the soft sand. The New Zealand Sea Lion is the rarest of all Sea Lions. Later we drove to Taiaroa Head on the point of the Otago Peninsula to see an Albatross. We were lucky and saw several. Quite majestic. Seagulls were openly nesting in the same location with many chicks visible.<\/p>\n\n\n\nThe little hill between the campsite in Portobello and Allan\u2019s Beach.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe beach for Sea Lion spotting.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe larger of the three Sea Lions.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nMother and pup.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nInformation on the New Zealand Sea Lion.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nTaiaroa Head and the Albatross centre<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nOne of many Albatross sightings<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nWhat a glider!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nSpot the spotty seagull chicks.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nWithin the Albatross Centre were garments made of possum and Marino! Possums are not popular in NZ.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nView from Taiaroa Head across Otago Harbour towards Dunedin.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
On 28 November a four hour drive from Te Anau took us to the city of Dunedin and beyond to our campsite at Portobello on the Otago peninsula. Very wet and windy shortly after we arrived but improved late evening, The Otago peninsula is famous for sightings of Albatros, Blue Penguins and Sea Lions.<\/p>\n\n\n\nThe road along Otago Peninsula between Dunedin and Portobello <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Te Anau (and Milford Sound): 25 – 28 November<\/h2>\n\n\n\nTe Anau – the lake of the same name has the largest capacity of any NZ lake.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
Stayed at the Lakeside campsite with great views of Lake Te Anau. On 26 November we went on an organised trip along the lake to Milford Sound. A truly memorable experience! The Sound is actually a fiord with a terminal moraine at the entrance to the sea. The trip was with Fiordland Tours and we would recommend them to others. <\/p>\n\n\n\nMap of the tour to Milford Sound from Te Anau.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nEglington Valley – halfway between Te Anau and Milford Sound<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nView of Lake Gunn on the road to Milford Sound with sunlight through trees illuminating the shallower foreshore.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe tour boat catamaran at Milford Sound<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nView from the land end of Milford Sound towards the Tasman Sea.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThey get everywhere! The cliff in the background is Mitre Peak, and is over 1600 metres tall and the highest sea-cliff in the world.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nOne of the many waterfalls in the Sound and a classic hanging valley (remember geography O-level)?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nAt the entrance to the Tasman Sea. Next stop west is Argentina!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe entrance to the Sound which Captain Cook missed during his first visit.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe waterfall that drenched a lot of the boat passengers!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nOne or two passengers found shelter from the waterfall.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nOne of the many excursions on the way back from the Sound.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
Lake Hawea: 24 – 25 November<\/h2>\n\n\n\nLake Hawea<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
The campsite at Lake Hawea was perfectly situated on the shore of lake. Nice location spoilt by noisy weekend visitors. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
On 25 November we drove to Te Anau, stopping at Arrowtown. Highlight of the visit to Arrowtown was a classic car\/bike show at the local school. The town itself was too tourist-centred for our taste. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nLake Hawea near sunset<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nEucalyptus tree on the shore of Lake Hawea<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nAdmiring an older MG at the Arrowtown classic car show<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nLovely condition Ford Anglia – this one manufactured in New Zealand in the early 1960s.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe Zephyr version of the Ford Consul that Alan\u2019s Mum had. This one is a convertible though\u2026<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nA few bikes at the showing including this lovely Mike Hailwood replica Ducati.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
Twizel: 22 – 24 November<\/h2>\n\n\n\nTwizel just south of Mount Cook<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
On 23 November Alan fished the hydro-electric canals near Twizel. The canals and dam structures are quite an engineering fete with amazingly blue, clear, fast water running through them. A number of salmon farms are situated along the miles of canals. Conditions were tough with a 30 mph wind and strong currents but patience paid off with Alan landing a 4 lb Salmon and half a dozen 10 inch trout from the dam area on the Pukaki Canal. They were all caught on a trout\/salmon spinner.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Caroline hired a bicycle and explored the area around the canals. Difficult pedalling in the strong wind!<\/p>\n\n\n\nOne of the many impressive canals in the Twizel area. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe 4 lb salmon from the Pukaki Canal <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe salmon was not returned!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
We left the surprisingly pleasant town of Methven and headed for Twizel. On the way we stopped at a great museum in a lovely heritage town called Geraldine. It was full of agricultural equipment, classic cars and bikes and memorabilia from the 1950\/60s. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
We had to stop for photos at Lakes Tekapo and Pukaki. The latter provided stunning mirror images of the surrounding mountains including the highest in New Zealand, Mount Cook, thanks to a lull in the wind.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Twizel is a town developed in the 1970\/80s as a consequence of hydro-electricity construction from Lake Pukaki. Large canals have been constructed to carry the water from the lake and dams. Monster trout and salmon have been caught in the canals. Surprisingly for a town with such an abundance of electricity, when we arrived at the town campsite, there was an all day power outage!<\/p>\n\n\n\nA small part of the collection at the museum in Geraldine. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nA John Deere tractor amongst the many in the museum\u2019s collection<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nLupins beside Lake Tekapo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nStunning mirror images on Lake Pukaki with Mount Cook in the distance.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
On 21 November we drove from Jackson\u2019s, through the Otira Gorge and Arthur\u2019s Pass to our next stopover – Methven, back over to the east side of the Southern Alps. We then crossed the fantastically blue Rakaia river on the aptly named Southern Scenic Route.<\/p>\n\n\n\nSpectacular vistas on the Arthur\u2019s Pass road.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nMainly dry river bed and wild lupins.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe unusual blue colour of the Rakaia river is suspended glacial sediment <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nMethven – a quaint little ski town. Our stop for the night.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
On 20 November we explored the sights around the Jackson\u2019s Retreat campsite, first a waterfall and then a quartz crushing mine (for gold). We initially had to give up on the mine as the path we were following had not been used for years and, as we had no machetes, we could not fight through the jungle to make progress. Back at base we established an alternative route and ran that later in the day. <\/p>\n\n\n\nView from the campground<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nRiver Taramakau – road and rail bridges<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nWaterfall above the campground <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nQuartz crushing mine from the late 1800s.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
On 19 November we drove south on highway 6 from Westport down the west coast. Another great road very suited to motorcycles. We stopped at Punakaiki to view spectacular \u201cpancake rocks\u201d and not quite so spectacular glow worms. Just after Greymouth we headed south east towards the mountains and Arthur\u2019s Pass stopping at the Jackson\u2019s Retreat campsite for two nights. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
That night we visited a glow worm site next to the campsite. It reminded us of the rhyme :<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Oh, I wish I were a glow worm, for a glow worm’s never glum, ’cause how can you be grumpy when the sun shines out your bum?<\/p>\n\n\n\nThe coast road (highway 6). Perfect for motorcycles!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nDescending into the limestone caves at Punakaiki containing glow worms.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nSome of the more eroded pancake rocks <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe Pancake Rocks – layers of limestone with mainly dislodged mudstone between each layer. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nMore pancake erosion<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nKayak hire at Fox River not good value as people had to walk the kayaks due to the low water level..<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe Great Alpine Highway from the west coast through Arthur\u2019s Pass.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe Taramakau River along the Great Alpine Highway. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe Southern Alps of New Zealand<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nA Weta – a really cheeky bird.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
Westport: 18 – 19 November<\/h2>\n\n\n\nCarters Beach, Westport<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
We followed the Buller River from its source, Lake Rotoiti at St Arnaud, through gorges to its estuary on the Tasman Sea at Westport. Stayed in the Carters Beach campsite which has the best kitchen facilities so far!<\/p>\n\n\n\n
We observed New Zealand Fur Seals a few miles from the campsite at the curiously named Cape Foulwind.<\/p>\n\n\n\nThe Buller River a few miles from its source, Lake Rotoiti.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nBuller Gorge and New Zealand\u2019s longest swing bridge (a rope bridge)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe Buller River again further downstream. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe Buller River estuary at Westport. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nHurricane\/Tsunami warning on Carters Beach,<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nA not-so-disguised NZ fur seal<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nA family of fur seals blending into the rocks.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe long strand just south of Cape Foulwind.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
St Arnaud: 16 – 18 November<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
We stayed at the Kerr Bay national campsite in Nelson Lakes National Park. The site is on a terminal moraine that terminates the six mile long glacial moraine lake of Lake Rotoiti. The lake is full of brown trout and Alan regrets not having room to bring a fly rod on the trip!<\/p>\n\n\n\n
We both regret not having our own kayaks!<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The site is surrounded by woodland and full of Tuis and Bell Birds with amazing voices.<\/p>\n\n\n\nSt Arnaud highlighted<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nLake Rotoiti<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nRain clouds over Lake Roitoiti<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThey knew we were coming?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
On 16 November we joined a group kayaking on Queen Charlotte Sound. A great experience which provided excellent views of the Sound\u2019s spectacular mountains, vegetation and sea life. We paddled from a bay just north of Picton and crossed the Sound, landing at Mistletoe Bay for a lunch break. The return trip was a little choppy as the wind had strengthened. Total distance paddled was 12 miles.<\/p>\n\n\n\nThe outward leg of the paddle across Queen Charlotte Sound.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe return leg into Picton.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nNice to be in a double kayak again!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nSqueezed through this gap<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe highlight of this paddle when a couple of Dusky Dolphins decided to play!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
Arrived in Picton on 15 November and stayed overnight at the Picton Tasmin Holiday Park. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
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![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/apethtravels.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/img_2810-1.jpg?resize=375%2C500&ssl=1\")
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/apethtravels.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/img_2807-1.jpg?resize=500%2C375&ssl=1\")
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/apethtravels.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/img_2813-1-1.jpg?resize=318%2C500&ssl=1\")
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/apethtravels.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/img_2814-1.jpg?resize=500%2C375&ssl=1\")
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/apethtravels.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/img_2815-1.jpg?resize=500%2C375&ssl=1\")
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/apethtravels.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/img_2806-1.jpg?resize=500%2C375&ssl=1\")
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/apethtravels.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/img_2788-1.png?resize=375%2C500&ssl=1\")
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/apethtravels.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/img_2779-1.jpg?resize=500%2C375&ssl=1\")
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/apethtravels.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/img_2789-1.jpg?resize=500%2C375&ssl=1\")
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/apethtravels.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/img_2780-1.jpg?resize=500%2C500&ssl=1\")
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/apethtravels.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/img_2781-2-1.jpg?resize=500%2C375&ssl=1\")
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/apethtravels.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/img_2782-1.jpg?resize=375%2C500&ssl=1\")
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/apethtravels.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/img_2785-1.jpg?resize=375%2C500&ssl=1\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/apethtravels.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/img_2784-1.jpg?resize=500%2C375&ssl=1\")
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/apethtravels.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/img_2783-1.jpg?resize=500%2C375&ssl=1\")
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/apethtravels.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/img_2786-1.jpg?resize=500%2C375&ssl=1\")
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/apethtravels.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/img_2758-1.png?resize=500%2C375&ssl=1\")
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/apethtravels.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/img_2763-1.jpg?resize=500%2C375&ssl=1\")
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/apethtravels.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/img_2764-1.jpg?resize=500%2C375&ssl=1\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/apethtravels.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/img_2765-1.jpg?resize=500%2C375&ssl=1\")
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/apethtravels.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/img_2757-1.jpg?resize=500%2C375&ssl=1\")
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/apethtravels.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/img_2749-1.png?resize=500%2C375&ssl=1\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/apethtravels.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/img_2746-1.png?resize=375%2C500&ssl=1\")
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/apethtravels.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/img_2747-1.png?resize=375%2C500&ssl=1\")
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/apethtravels.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/img_2751-1.jpg?resize=500%2C281&ssl=1\")
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![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/apethtravels.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/img_2750-1.jpg?resize=500%2C281&ssl=1\")